But what sparked this forward-looking, post-war mood in fashion? And who were the bohemian, so-called "Chelsea Set"? Its members included Quant, who opened her first boutique Bazaar on the King's Road in 1955, and Terence Conran, whose first Habitat store opened in 1964. Bringing a new direction to fine jewelry design, these artists created unique pieces using non-traditional materials and creating unusual forms that were primarily drawn from nature.The silver space-age tunics of Pierre Cardin, the chainmail dresses of Paco Rabanne, the ultra-short minis of Mary Quant – these are all familiar tropes of 1960s style. Integrating biographies of each of the makers with images of their work and maker’s marks, this volume illustrates jewelry by Andrew Grima, John Donald, Arthur King, Elsa Peretti, and many others, as well as work by major jewelry houses such as Cartier, Bulgari, and Van Cleef & Arpels. The catalog explores the history of this jewelry and puts it in context with essays that speak to the 1961 Goldsmiths’ Hall exhibition in London, the early Italian makers, major jewelry houses and their contributions, and the jewelry of this era and its relationship to fashion. This magnificent new volume, containing original research, is full of photography of stunning one of a kind pieces which reflect the inventive and ground-breaking attitudes of the era. Drawn from the stellar collection of Cincinnatian Kimberly Klosterman, these individual makers thought of themselves as artists first, jewelers second. Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s presents over 100 examples by leading makers and designers of jewelry in the 1960s and ‘70s. Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970sīy Cynthia Amnéus, Adam MacPhàrlain, Ruth Peltason, Rosemary Ransome Wallis, Amanda Triossi Biographies of each designer/house represented are paired with full color images, extended text for a select number of highlighted pieces and an appendix of maker’s marks. The exhibition is accompanied by a full color illustrated catalogue and includes essays by some of the most important scholars in the field. Drawn from one of the most important private collections in the world, assembled by Cincinnatian Kimberly Klosterman, this exhibition features the work of independent jewelers such as Andrew Grima, Gilbert Albert, Arthur King, Jean Vendome and Barbara Anton along with work created for Bulgari, Cartier, Boucheron and other major houses. This exhibition of approximately 120 pieces represents a single collector’s interest and explores the international renaissance in fine jewelry in the 1960s and ’70s. Theirs was a style that was appreciated by individuals who were looking for something different in an era when different was best. They used unconventional materials such as coral, shell, geodes and moldavite and were unrivaled in the texture they brought to jewelry. They focused on organic forms, favored abstract shapes and concepts related to space-age trends. Largely utilizing yellow gold and incorporating both precious and semi-precious gems, these artists were inspired by nature. They approached their work as a modern art form. The individual makers represented in Simply Brilliant referred to themselves as artists first, jewelers second. These social deviations set the stage for what jewelers had to offer, expressing individuality, nonconformity, and the aesthetic, political and intellectual values of those who wore it. The space race, rock ‘n’ roll, the Beatles, the Vietnam War, the Kennedy assassinations, the Civil Rights movement, Pop Art, the Women’s Movement, the widespread use of drugs, the Pill, and the concept of free love were all facets of cultural change associated with these two decades. Jewelry of the 1960s and 1970s was as groundbreaking as the era itself. Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s October 22, 2021–FebruVance Waddell and Mayerson Galleries (Galleries 124 & 125) Free Admission | Press Release | Become a Member | Friends of Fashion ![]() In Gallery Chat with ASL Interpretation (On-site). ![]()
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